why does the 13b average 100k miles?

[cantandominator]

i dont have an rx7 yet but im looking at craigslist constantly and refreshing, been reading a lot and they only seem to last for 100k miles, does anybody know why?
also if you happen to be selling an fcTT, not convertable let me know please ^_^V

[black rocket]

I know a guy with 200K on his motor. Just like anything else, TLC makes a great deal of difference. On the same note, I know one blew his with less than 10K.

When I did my swap, my original motor had 120K and only reason I blew a seal was I was being stupid.

[1stGenNa4Now]

Exactly. What black rocket said.

[ungrave]

IMO, there are three achille's heels on the 13B. All three come with age but are easily fixed. I've experienced all of the following on my T2. I've fixed each problem area and now my T2 currently has over 200k on the engine.

#1 Engine Fire

-replace the fuel press regulator, pulsation dampener, and the rubber fuel lines on the engine. They tend to spontaneously leak when they get old.

#2 Clogged EGR Valve and Ports

-causes part throttle detonation which can pop an engine
-removed the EGR Valve and Lower Intake manifold. Clean all the EGR ports on the valve and manifold with pipe cleaning brushes and lots of carb cleaner. Be careful to not damage the plastic and rubber EGR valve components.

#3 Oil metering pump, lines, nozzles

-can cause excessive seal wear if not working correctly
-replace the oil metering hoses from the oil metering pump to the oil nozzles. They get brittle and can crack.
-make sure the oil metering pump is working and adjusted to supply the correct amount of oil to the combustion chamber.
-make sure none of the oil nozzles are clogged

[black rocket]

Specifically, fire occurres when fuel damper(ner)'s diaphragm becomes brittle and begins to leak. Fuel lines, IMO, is a joke where sets underneath UIM.

I did hard plumbed my fuel line and upgraded fuel damper(ner) to Marren along with FPR. This issue, along with other plumbing, NEEDS to be addressed immediately after acquiring any 20+ year old car.

I removed all of them unnecessary (for my county) smog related parts.

Oh, not to mention that OMP is one of the most notorious oil leak location which contributes to improper oil nozzle functions, in turn, no lubrication = there she blows seals! I have chosen to premix and done away with OMP.

This, as far as I'm concerened, the most crucial issue older sports car is concerned, is YOU MUST replace all possible bushings!! Just imagine you mod your powertrain and near zero suspension reliability, which can not corrected by slapping on some shocks, coilover, etc., which leads to inability to execute proper maneuver.

And most ppl seem to ignore ability to stop the beast and leave 20+ year old brake lines...

Getting any older cars into a proper condition takes $$, time & effort, so bear that in mind before decided to tackle the project!

Be smart about it rather than just wanting instantaneous speed demon.