WOW IM LOST

[neal916]

Ok guys this is my first time dealing with an RX7. Its an 1986 totally base model RX7 and a beautiful beast IMO. I got it for 400 bux from my cuzin but everything seems good and I dont think he ripped me off (he's just really loaded and didn't wanna keep in on the sidewalk). Well I have tons of questions but I wont overload you guys for too much info lol. A couple of quick ones should do the trick. The car has no power steering. I was wondering if i could swap in power steering and what would i need to do it? How much labor is involved and what would my total cost run me? Also the car has no AC, any guesses as to what the problem may be and solutions? And the last question (well for this post at least ) I think bone stock their at about 146 hp so what would i have to do to get it to a reasonable power range. As in reasonable im shooting for anywhere from 200 to 250 even better if it was at the wheel. Well to better put it what would i need to get into low 14's?

Any and all is very much appreciated.
Thank You
Newb RX7 owner

[Canaduh]

Might seem harsh, but if the car runs nicely, sell it and buy a t2. N/a's don't have much power. But the T2's can rip up anything. Yeah, the more i read your post, the more you should just sell your beast, and save up for a turbo model. They're much much faster.

[fc3s]

ok i have an 88 gtu and i can play with pontiac ws-6's and comaro Z28's. well its best if you dont have power steering cause once your car gets moving its not all that hard to steer and its less crap your car has to power. also check and see if he took out the a/c cause if he did then he just gave your car a little more hp not a whole lot. and dont make you car a drag car cause cops look for that crap. keep your car stock lookin and a mean street machine (Sleeper) here is my setup:

Intake/Exhaust
Stock Intake with K&N insert, RB Headers and Cat replacement pipe, apexi gt cat back exhaust.

Engine
SAFC ECU, Intake and Exhaust Street Port, wire open aux ports, all emissions removed, 720cc Secondary Fuel Injectors, Rotary Aviation rebuild kit (corner seals, side seals, apex seals, apex seal springs, and gaskets etc...), alluminum main drive double sheave pully, and alluminum under drive pulley

Transmission
Centerforce stage 2 clutch, RB Alluminum fly wheel with replaceable friction plate, and miata short shifter kit

Cooling
Griffin Alluminum radiator

Brakes
Power slot slotted rotors and powerslot semi metaic pads, stock calipers, braided stainless steal brake lines.

Suspension
Suspension Techniques fornt and rear anti swaybar, Tein 1.5 lowering springs/ Coils, KYB AGX adjustible shocks, Cusco Camber plates(front), OBX Camber Kit (rear), front and rear strut tower bar

Fuel
87 octane with TC-W3 premix (helps save and protect apex seals form carbon deposits)

Chassis
S&W 4 point roll cage (Stiffens chassis up to 30%)

The cage isnt a must but if you want a harness its your best bet instead of a harness bar. it costs about the same plus you get the benefit of stiffening your chassis more. also you will beed a new differential. i suggest you get a diff off of a gtu or t2. if you get the gtu diff you will have 4.10 final gears and limited slip. since you have the base you have a mainly open diff which means only one tire spins. see im set up for road course and i run a low 12 to mid 11 1/4 mile depending on the tires.

now here is the thing you can get a t2 and do the same but jump up to a bigger turbo with a higher psi and intercooler but then that would be way too much stress on the engine and then it would go kaboom and your out a shit load of money.

now i you can pull together 7500bucks i have a friend that specializes in rotary engines and he can build you a 20B (three rotor engine) putting out 700 Hp at the wheels.

with the setup i have im putting out around 200-225 hp at the wheels depending how i have my ecu set

[2ROTORMOTOR]

Originally Posted by fc3s ok i have an 88 gtu and i can play with pontiac ws-6's and comaro Z28's. well its best if you dont have power steering cause once your car gets moving its not all that hard to steer and its less crap your car has to power. also check and see if he took out the a/c cause if he did then he just gave your car a little more hp not a whole lot. and dont make you car a drag car cause cops look for that crap. keep your car stock lookin and a mean street machine (Sleeper) here is my setup: Intake/Exhaust Stock Intake with K&N insert, RB Headers and Cat replacement pipe, apexi gt cat back exhaust. Engine SAFC ECU, Intake and Exhaust Street Port, wire open aux ports, all emissions removed, 720cc Secondary Fuel Injectors, Rotary Aviation rebuild kit (corner seals, side seals, apex seals, apex seal springs, and gaskets etc...), alluminum main drive double sheave pully, and alluminum under drive pulley Transmission Centerforce stage 2 clutch, RB Alluminum fly wheel with replaceable friction plate, and miata short shifter kit Cooling Griffin Alluminum radiator Brakes Power slot slotted rotors and powerslot semi metaic pads, stock calipers, braided stainless steal brake lines. Suspension Suspension Techniques fornt and rear anti swaybar, Tein 1.5 lowering springs/ Coils, KYB AGX adjustible shocks, Cusco Camber plates(front), OBX Camber Kit (rear), front and rear strut tower bar Fuel 87 octane with TC-W3 premix (helps save and protect apex seals form carbon deposits) Chassis S&W 4 point roll cage (Stiffens chassis up to 30%) The cage isnt a must but if you want a harness its your best bet instead of a harness bar. it costs about the same plus you get the benefit of stiffening your chassis more. also you will beed a new differential. i suggest you get a diff off of a gtu or t2. if you get the gtu diff you will have 4.10 final gears and limited slip. since you have the base you have a mainly open diff which means only one tire spins. see im set up for road course and i run a low 12 to mid 11 1/4 mile depending on the tires. now here is the thing you can get a t2 and do the same but jump up to a bigger turbo with a higher psi and intercooler but then that would be way too much stress on the engine and then it would go kaboom and your out a shit load of money. now i you can pull together 7500bucks i have a friend that specializes in rotary engines and he can build you a 20B (three rotor engine) putting out 700 Hp at the wheels. with the setup i have im putting out around 200-225 hp at the wheels depending how i have my ecu set

lol BS.... mid 11's?? come on guy. removing the ac, and ps do nothing but cause an inconvenience. No hp loss if its off.

[fc3s]

talk to my friend he builds them he's working on a n/a 20b putting out 700whp ill show you the pics when i go over there

[fc3s]

i know that does almost nothing but everything helps sometimes less is more, maybe not much more but still

[2ROTORMOTOR]

Originally Posted by fc3s i know that does almost nothing but everything helps sometimes less is more, maybe not much more but still

Well the thing is, that I keep hearing this false bit of info from many people and they keep spreading the word. The fact is that, when everything is turned off, there is NO difference in power. Not even showable on a dyno. Now, with the a/c on and PS active, there is some power loss, but just by turning it off it is no longer drawing power from your motor.

[Skipsblind]

its not that you actually gain more hp but your engine spools up fast getting you to higher rpm's faster = maximum hp sooner not more hp.

[black rocket]

Originally Posted by Skipsblind its not that you actually gain more hp but your engine spools up fast getting you to higher rpm's faster = maximum hp sooner not more hp.

Man, this an old thread! All in all less h/p robbery (i.e., A/C, P/S, water pump or whatever else run thru belt) equals more. Less weight (especially A/C & P/S) = quicker response.

Besides, who runs A/C anyway? I rarely even listen to a music when I'm driving. I truly enjoy listening to my mech sound

[ryrotary7]

yeah id prob get t2 cuz they already have almost have 200hp.