3 questions.....
 

posted in order of importance:

#1 i have to get an inspection, the first inspection im getting for my n/a 89 GXL, i have the stock exhaust just aftermarket mufflers im scared ill fail... Is it just turbo rotarys that have to wory about inspections or should i be scared?
#2 is Backfiring bad for the engine? If i rev to 5-6k rpms it backfires.. & is reving the engine bad for it?

#3 random question lol, are oil catch cans just for turbo cars? If not are they significantly benificial?

Thanks!!

1. As long as things are in good functioning condition (tires, brakes, suspension, lights, ect) you shouldn't have a problem. Being turbo or NA has no bearing on it's ability to pass.

2. Backfires are not good, as for the revs as long as you are not over revving or staying in up in the range for long periods of time.

3. A catch can could be used on a NA application if you wanted to.

#1. My cars exhaust is all good, one of my headlights is missing the highbeam bulb i noticed today while replacing my HID, and my rear wiper was removed by the previous owner, also idk if my car being too low will make me fail? Or that i removed the oem seatbelts n have 4 point harnesses, also since i put my side fender signal lenses on but dont have them hooked up i just bought the lenses & put them on

#2 i hear that backfire is natural for rotary engines?

#3 is a catch can a good performance upgrade?

Okay are you looking at what you are asking?

1. Inspections are simple no reason to make things complicated. If you read my first response you should get the idea. Having the lens in the fender but not hooked up means they do not work so FAIL. Having harnesses should be fine, they are safety restraints. I'm going to assume you have aftermarket H4 style headlights, because the OEM lights are sealed beams. Okay again if the headlight is not functioning then Fail. I have never had an issue with the height of my car during inspections & the rear wiper not being there is not a problem. Make sure you have good wiper blades on the front. Like I said above things have to work & be in good condition.

2. You asked if backfiring is bad then you say you hear it's normal. So why ask the question if you already had the answer you wanted to hear? Yes our cars do run rich, but that doesn't mean it's natural to backfire.

Common causes of backfires are:

• Poor or unregulated engine timing is often a cause of intake backfires, but can also be responsible for exhaust backfires
• Improper wiring in the ignition can also lead to timing issues and backfires
• Low fuel pressure, clogged fuel filters, and weak fuel pumps could cause a severe lean air-to-fuel ratio during fuel injection
  
• Missing or damaged catalytic converter can result in backfires out the tailpipe

When a driver shifts up and lets off the accelerator, the engine has a moment of running rich. This causes an incomplete burn which causes the fumes to explode in the exhaust, thus a backfire. Now in a lean condition where the timing is to advanced the fuel doesn't have enough time for complete combustion also resulting in a type of backfire.

3. I can think of a lot of other ways to spend money that will be better from a performance standpoint.

I have to ask man, really do you not know how an Inspection works?

Nah i nvr got an inspection before but its all good now its been taken care of :), also im trying to find stuff for performance that isnt over 200$ i already have an intake and jus orderd a short shifter.

You are going to limited to what you can buy under $200 that is going to make a difference other then what you already have. Considering you have an NA start with the basics (header, exhaust, suspension & intake). If you have the funds a port job, aftermarket intake manifolds, ECU upgrades, custom tuned exhaust & fuel mods. Then there is also swapping option either rotary or piston.

Do you know any brands that make aftermarket intake manifolds? I thought there was none and i have an intake, i was thinking of getting a wideband and trying to get it tuned...? & or buy headers.. Also with my exhaust once i hit 4k rpms the cabin viberates so much =| i guess i need to buy some instlation and put it under the carpet

Well companies like Hogan's racing manifolds make sheet metal intake manifolds for our cars, they are not cheap by any means. You could go with the Holley square bore style manifolds, but use a 4 barrel EFI throttle body or a Weber IDA style manifold with some TWM individual throttle bodies. All these options would require you to have some sort of fuel & ignition management. Racing Beat offers a decently priced header that is a great upgrade, but if you can get your hands on a out of production SDJ header or a custom header from Defined Autoworks. Both of the last header options are pricey. Vibrations, maybe something loose?????

Idk i was driving amd was trying to figure out what it was but couldnt -_- but when i drive once i hit about 4k rpms my exhaust makes the inside cabin vibrate with huming it sucks lol i cant really appreciate my exhaust sound i need to buy instlation n put it under my carpeting in the hatch maybe because i have none there. Anyway im not sure what this does other then you can tune it but if i got this: http://www.andysautosport.com/mazda/...x00144711.html and an aem wideband or does this count as a wideband too? Would it help me out a lot performance wise? After i got a tune w it i guess

The Apexi AFC NEO is just the newest version of a piggy back fuel controller, it pretty much tricks the ECU aloowing you to adjust some fuel parameter. For the money you could get a RTek ECU upgraded stock that will allow for adjustments or you could even pick up a Megasquirt stand alone for even more adjustability & cover timing as well.

Look here I have a short run down on different piggybacks & stand alones. The links provided will give you the info & pricing on each. http://www.rx7forums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2194

A wideband is used for tunning, it will tell you what the Air to fuel ratio is. There are quite a few different widebands out there. A few of the common ones are the following.
Innovative - http://www.innovatemotorsports.com
PLX - http://www.plxdevices.com
Zeitronix - http://www.zeitronix.com
NGK - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...rmance/afx.asp
AEM - http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband.../digital-wideband-air-fuel-gauge-25
Dynojet - http://www.dynojetwb2.com/
Fast - http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/details/meter/default.asp
Autometer - http://www.autometer.com/wideband

Gotcha, also can you possibly tell me how to install a short shifter.. I jus bought one off ebay which hopefully fits but i read some cars you have to go underneath the car and take some screws out and this thing didnt come w instructions -_-

Well sorry, but I'm going to be lazy here & not explain how to install your shifter. I will provide you with a Youtube link that should be good enough for you get the idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzaYLUoXg_k

Saw that i just need to know if theres screws under the car i have to unscrew b/c i saw instructions on honda civics and s13's you have to unscrew stuff under the car

It's done through the top, Im pretty sure that in the video the guy demonstrates this. Unless I linked a different video then what I remember.

Idk hopefully there no car work neccessary, in the video it starts with the assembly already off, but i guess i cant do it today cuz i think ur supposed to clean out where tje shifter is n put new differential oil

Isn't back fireing on a rotery engine uselly the result of an open exuhast or a defective acv?

The factory rich conditions mixed with an open exhaust and an incomplete burn thus a backfire.

Noobie I was hoping you figured out that taking out the factory shifter was just a reverse of what he did to install the new. Just repeat the process in reverse. it's obvious that you first need to remove the shift knob, then the shift boot & shifter surround to access the shifter itself.

Yeah i tryed installing it yesterday but i didnt have enough time its like a puzzle i think i can figure it out, anyway im tryna find a chip now idk about the rtek but i found this on ebay what do u think..? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...003454&index=6

Looks like typical Ebay junk sorry man. I would not buy that, but it's your money. Also I'm sure you will not find any product support from anyone other then the seller if they even can help you.

I was gunna say dyno test it, can you give me a direct link to any chip i can use for my car?

You could spend the money on that chip thing then spend the money for the time on the dyno if you would like. Remember you will need to get a base line to compare to so before & after install of the chip on the same car. It also has a lot of claims you would need to monitor such as fuel consumption ect. Under the link I provided earlier on piggybacks & standalones there was a link to Jet performance. You send them the ECU & they will chip it then send it back to you. There a few other companies that offer similar services. Chipped ECU are very limited to what you will gain in return & are generally set to certain parameters with no alterations can be made.

So its basically not even worth it lol, im not gunna bother w/ performance anymore racing beat headers & then a wideband & tune seem to be the only sensible thing to do

A full exhaust (header back), clutch/flywheel combo & a some sort of cold air intake is a good start. Try looking here they have some decent stuff. http://www.corksport.com/

I just put on two new apexi n1 style mufflers w 3.5 inch outlit and i have my reg intake pipe into a 4 inch big k&n cone filter as a cold air

Did you ever get any pics of the car so we here can see the progress?

Nah i didnt =\ im waiting, some day this week me and my friend are gunna take our cars somewhere to take pics. Also ive decieded to re-do my exhaust because my friends exhaust broke off rite before the resonator and it made the cabin viberate alot after 3k rpms jus like mine does, i think i have a hole in my exhaust so im going to cut off everything before the piping after the y pipe that was just replace to my new mufflers, i believe the stock exhaust is 2.25" should i replace it w/ 2.25 or go to 2.5, im gunna put a high flow cat too (magnaflow)

Nothing larger then a 2.5" if you do decide to change it & Maganaflow makes good products.

Do you think ill Gain hp making it 2.5"? Also in the future im prob gunna get a 2.5" ebay header. Like this: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=30664278405 do u think with my cold air, those headers and a 2.5" exhaust w/ my n1 mufflers 3.5" tips ill gain some power? I also expect to backfire real nice >=]

That header looks like a direct copy of the Racing Beat road race header. I'm just going to say this, with a complete exhaust & intake you will net some extra power, just don't expect a massive increase. They will allow the motor to breath better & are great starting points.

Im not expecting a huge increase just any notable difference, & i jus need to get a 2 step after that exhaust n ill offcially have the most entertaining car lmao

Shouldnt the header go from the 2 pipes from the engine to 1 pipe into the cat..? Where would the two exit pipe connect to?

The road race style that you linked is to run a true dual exhaust. That keeps the exhaust running individually all the way back. You would need to look into getting the street header in which the two runners merge into one at the flange, so you can mount to the cat.

Crap.. I dnt have a tru dual exhaust -_- i guess im gunna have to fabricate an adapter pipe and weld it to the exit and then to the magnaflow hi flo cat and then to the exhaust

Im not sure but this might be single pipe exit if so ill prob get this OBX header:http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=54759072992

Yes that is a street header there.

Idk im not sure it kinda looks like the exit part splits into two but maybe it ia a single pipe im gunna ask the seller but if it is then thats perfect i jus need 65$ more to get my magnaflow hi flo cat and im good to go

Also what about this? Its like $40 cheaper and its a single pipe exit, the only thing is in the discription it says its got 2" tubing to 2.5 collector.. Idk what a collector is but isnt 2" the same as the oem exhaust manifold or smaller..?

You didn't link anything. But the 2" is for the runners (the pipes to each port ) & the collector is 2 1/2" ( the pipe where the two runners merge together which is why it's called a collector ). You OEM manifold is a heavy non flowing casting & the header is a tubular individual runner performance part designed to flow better.

Wow im an idiot lol but this is it: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=22554621866

It's the same basic header as the 2nd one you linked just different exterior coating.