New to rotary help appreciated!
 

Ok, so I went to an auction two weeks ago and just went for fun and before the end of the auction I saw a sexy Japanese automobile... I started bidding on it and ended up winning a 89 rx7 gxl 5 speed for $650, the car had Rims already on it, hids, new springs I believe, ac works &heat however the interior was all screwed up like someone ransacked the car but most of the interior was still in the car which I put back. anyway, it's an FC and it's got 156k miles and it runs good,to cut to the chase, I was thinking of making it a turbo, can I buy a turbo kit or do I have to swap a turbo2 engine? All I can find is ppl doing swaps, But other then that, headlight motors are apparently burned and the rightside mirror is broken off, and the sunroof cable is broken I think, so I just ordered the motors and mirrors, body work is done after I order my bodykit it's going to paint then I was planning on buying an apexi n1 dual exhaust and pacesetter headers rite now all it's got besides stock is an air breather and big k&n air filter, any answers on my turbo question or advice how I can make more power on this n/a car is appreciated. Now I have to look for replacement racing seats since the stock ones have been sliced up -.-

I'm not 100% sure but I think it is possible to put a turbo in, but in the long run it's better to swap then upgrade... mostly because the NA tranny and differential cant handle much more power than a NA engine.

Yeah I read it's possible but a lot of fabrication is necesary and it's more expensive then a swap -.- this sucks idk what else I'm gunna do after I get my exhaust and headers for more power (NO NOS) I just read porting or boring but can u do that with a rotary engine?

I fell asleep as I was responding to this thread... sry. I'm 100% in agreement with BioNuke. Along with axle difference and caliper difference (if you want to stop effectively). So, that being said yes, when you make your car faster you'll need to modify other part od your vehicle.

Alright, anyway as for an update my cars currently in the shop getting dents pulled body kit installed and new paint, then comes the headers and exhaust as of now I just have a four inch k&n cone filter, can anyone give me a recomendation for headers and or exhaust? As for headers I've been between racing beat and pacesetter I hear racing beat is better? And for exhaust I'm thinking apexi n1 dual exhaust or hks hi power dual exhaust, althought for one of them I'm not sure but I think it's discription said only one of the exhausts actually work the other muffler is just for show for performance purposes... Thanks in advance!

What you have is a 13b 6 port motor, the turbo motors are 13bt 4 port's for that gen RX7. You can turbo the 6 port it has been done many times, the turbo swap is just easy & no real fab work. You can find TII trannys fairly cheap, but you will need the rest of the drivetrain ( rear end, axels & shaft ect ). As far as porting yes you can. There is a few different types of port jobs, some shops have thier own signature port jobs as well. The basic types are Street, Bridge, Half bridge, Peripheral. Check this link for a description. http://www.mazdarotary.net/porting.htm

The RB headers are the best bet, but if you want to go cheap the Pacesetter will work fine. The N1 exh are nice systems, I don't have any experience first hand on the HKS Hi power though.

Remember when modding a car do things equally, meaning don't just tackle engine componets. Make sure you give the other aspects the proper attention. Making power without traction or control may prove to be a bad decision. Good luck & welcome to the forum, coming from another new member.

What do u have to do when u want ur engine potted? Take out ur engine n ship it to them? And yeah idk I don't think I'm gunna go that far I think my car will be decently fast with my four Inch intake the headers and the exhaust I'm gunna drive it like that for a while I wanna look up more on the hks hi power cause hks is more notorious then apexi but the n1 seems to be more popular. As far as control when I got the car I looked under and discoverd aftermarket red springs idk what brand they are. I just hope my car isn't rediculously loud after the headers and exhaust I just want it to be decently loud and sounding nice which I think it will. Do silencers cut horsepower? As car as inspection goes I know a guy that with some $$ will make the car pass a-ok

To port the motor yes it will need to be torn down & put back together. Red springs most likely Eibach's. Keep the silencers in cruising around take them out going to the track.

Where do the silencers go? And I'm thinking of replacing the cat with race pipe? What would I buy to replace the cat if u could post the ideal part I'd appreciate it and cuttin the cat makes a significant power increase rite? And idk I'm gunna pass inspection no matter what so I wanna cut the cat and keep silencers out 24/7 i have mustang cobras w straight pipes hear n cops very rarely bother them

Not sure where you are, but one thing is true everywhere & it's that imports catch the attention of the police. Domestic cars such as Stangs, Camaros & Vettes usually skate under the radar. I would run presilencers or some sort of resonator. Loud doesn't always mean fast, but it will prove to be annoying driving around town. The N1 style mufflers use a baffle type silencer that is placed in the tip of the muffler. It is easy to remove & replace (one bolt).

Another fact you'll need put into consideration is n/a needs certain amount of backpressure unlike forced induction. Also, bear in mind that porting n/a does not produce worthy of expenses you'll need to put into it.

Be sure to weigh your options before you start the mod project as they aren't cheap by any means. Trust me on this. It's like an addiction once you start on rotary :)

I strongly disagree with black rocket on this one. Maybe he is a little biased. Is a money game yes, but that doesnt necessarily mean that you'll have to spend alot more to beat turbo guys or that it wont be worth the expense. As I am about to prove to a couple of fd drivers in my area. You must do your homework and know what you are doing. Tunning is key. Once you have the power is all about science and math to get the times you want.

Power to weight is a strong factor when speaking in performance terms. I don't recall Rocket saying anything about Turbo beating NA, but I will! In the real world two motors of the same, one turbo & one NA is the question you bring. Lets start here for a NA to be competitive with a turbo car there will be sacrifices that are not exceptable in a street car. To get the NA around the power levels of a lighly modded Turbo, will involve porting, lots of fuel, on point tuning, weight savings. Put the same money & work used towards the NA into the turbo & not a chance. Not that you can't make a NA rotary quick, but in the quest the car gets extremely loud & reliablity is in question. What I think he meant was that by porting the motor there will be additional cost as in intake, exhaust, fuel & tune for things to be effective. Now back to my above statement Turbo 13b trumps NA 13b look at the recorded times they speak the truth.

Thank you, BoostedFC! I take it for granted for not bringing up something obvious to me and glad you explained more in details.

Here we go. The keyboard tough guy. I was not even talking to you but all the same to me. My point was that is a money game. That for what the original post was that he could make good power staying n/a and maybe even spend less than doing a turbo swap and yes still be faster. Not everyone can make a reliable, daily driven 12second n/a two rotor. Thats why it should be left to the experts, but it can and has been done! There are 6 second 1/8 mile n/a cars just like there are 6 second 1/8 mile turbo cars. Yeah the worlds fastest is a turbo nitrous 7 second 1/4 mile car which I doubt any of ya'll can compete with but that was not the point. 13 b trumps what? Who said I was even talking about 13b. I speak the truth I dont need my internet buddies to back up what I say. You can make an n/a car beat a turbo car and vice versa. The money you saved on cooling your turbo set up use to quiet down your monster port n/a street set up!! I know I know you are going to come back with another reponse with your two cents even though I was not talking to you.

I hope you are kidding really! "Keyboard tough Guy" Ha ha you are a funny guy. You don't seem to be reading the post through. Rocket never said anything about beating the NA & I never said you couldn't make a NA make power. I don't know if you are aware that you are on a forum or not, but when you make post expect others to respond. Nobody has said anything negative, just have gave info. Like I said above, getting the NA to the point of Turbo will in turn will be added work. You say Rocket was biased, well I'm not because I currently own two NA's, one turbo & one supercharged rotary. So I will be the first to be honest & say my NA's are quick but not as fast as my boosted applications. You may spend money reducing noise from your monster port, but you will be sacrificing power in the end. BTW the life of a monster port engine is not very long. This was supposed to be a decent no drama forum thanks for changing that. I meant 13bt trumps 13b. By the way I have been in the car game from some time from big block V8's to 4cyl under my belt, boosted, NA, FWD, RWD & AWD I don't claim to know everything, but I can be helpful.

Tuning is the key, of course. That goes for all combustion engines. I have Haltech to fine tune my ride. BDC does awesome tuning.

If you would have specified what you really wanted I know a guy in Australia whips out 700bhp out of his 12A

I believe the original question was how to get more power and the answer is who knows... you can also install alky sprits system to modify the detonation point in order to get more out of it. Better yet, you can also go with oxygen intake.

I didn't ask whether the ride will be DB or track car and level of experience, which clearly stated that thread starter is new to rotary and I was compelled to my response to be easily understood.

If you want a single race engine, by all means go for it!

I also do not believe in cutting corners to save a buck, thus, I only go with quality parts (not necessarily expensive) from wiring I selected (Presto Lite, dual insulated tin dipped copper wire), Hosetech vac lines, HKS mani, Bosch sensors, VDO gauges, Marren fuel dampner, hard plumbing using Aeroquip, MSD plug wires... and the list goes on...

I also would like to point out the fact that zero tolerance when it comes to bashing. If anyone interested or have strong desire to do so, please enjoy at other forums as I have no problem banning assholes, which I have on several occasions.

So, let's be civil and enjoy what we all are here for, rotorheads!

Thanks Rocket! I dont care what them girls say about ya, you're ok in my book:)

LOL! Although some of the things might be right... but I really want this site to be the friendly one that no member should be AFRAID to ask questions that are common to us.

When I first got my FC I had no idea how in the heck I was supposed to access plugs... :/

1stgenNA we got off to an interesting start my friend, I must say. From one car guy to another it's all gravy. :)

Rocket hey man I was the guy when I got my first rotary looked for the damn oil filter underneath the car back in 95. We have all came along way & for new guys it's definately better to ask then not know.

Yeah that makes sense, you buy silencers seperatly rite?.. Now I'm looking for seats I've found nice bride seats two for 500 free shipping there the non adjustable bucket seats I like but my dad doesent like them he wants me to get ones that I can adjust even though I insisnt the non adjustable ones r comfortable and I don't need to adjust it but whatever i'm not sure yet. And my exhaust is the stock one rite now missing the muffler I was going to et the exhaust first since it's more neccessay then headers after is that ok? Or should I Try and replace both at the same time or headers first

Take your time & get things you want. The N1's should have the silencers, if they don't yes you can get them seperately. On the seats Fixed back seats are nice, but are not for everyone. What may be comfortable for you may not be for someone else. Get the exh if you are missing a muffler then get the header when you can afford it.

Yeah that's what I'll prob do exhaust first headers second even though I Wount have a turbo I think my ca should be decently fast with just an intake the exhaust and headers......rite? There's not much else I can do besides turbo swap it's not like I can get race pistons or race cams lol

Decently quick yes. Let us know how things work out.

Yeah I'll keep this thread updated, i'll post pics of my car and any updates with my car, as of now it's in the body shop work starts monday I believe.

Dad tells me I can't drive the car if it doesent have airbags.. Tryed to explain with a five pt race harness I dnt need airbags but he still isn't convinced...

I myself a parent and I don't blame your dad to be concerned. My daughter had a roll over accident along with her friends and airbag didn't deploy...

If you can install a "good" roll cage along with a set of "good" 5 pt?

I have a parts car that was wrecked, supposedly doing over 90 and amazingly, the driver lived to tell about the wreck.

Idk about rol cages those r really expensive but he still wants me to get an airbag idk I showed him five pt harnesses n he just stared at the pics for a little n considerd it I'm gunna tell him about that 90mph with fve pt harnes and survived line hopefully it helps

Only two of my cars have airbags & one of those my son will be driving next yr. I have no problem with him driving an older car not equiped with airbags. If you live under his roof then you should play by the rules he sets.