AusTexRex
04-12-2004, 11:33 PM
Here's a whole list of some stuff I've compiled after being a member on a number of boards and seeing the most common questions and combining their FAQs as well. Big thanks to Icemark:
Can I swap a Turbo/Jspec/13BT/etc into my N/A?
Yes, check these links:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...;threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/turboconversion.htm
What should I look for when buying a FC?
Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html
Can I use a S5 tail light on my S4?
Yes with minor modifications to the body of the S4.
Here is a link on converting: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/taillights.htm
I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one
Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm
and
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/manuals/88_fsm.html
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/manuals/89_fsm.html
http://208.62.166.66/guest/shop_manuals/
What do the abbreviations I see in the 2nd gen section mean?
AAS = Auto Adjusting suspension
ACV = Air Control Valve
AFM = Air Flow Meter (also see MAF)
A-spec = North American Spec
ATF = Automatic transmission fluid
Auto = Automatic transmission
AWS = Accelerated Warm-Up System
BAC = Bypass Air Control
CAS = Crank Angle Sensor
CPU = Central Processing Unit (the Body computer)
DEI = Dynamic Effect Intake (found on 84 and later 13B engines)
DMM = Digital Multi-Meter (required for most electrical testing on cars)
DTSS = Dynamic tracking suspension system (found on all 2nd gen RX-7s)
ECU = Emissions Control Unit (also called Engine Control unit)
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
EGI = Electronic Gasoline Injection
EMS = Engine Management System (aftermarket engine computer)
FB = 1st gen RX-7 81-85 production
FC = 2nd gen RX-7 86-92 production
FC3C = 2nd gen RX-7 convertible
FC3S = 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe
FCD = Fuel Cut defender (aftermarket- used only on Turbos with modifed exhaust and stock ECU)
FD = 3rd gen RX-7
FI = Fuel Injection
FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler
GS = Sporty Model (in CAN)
GTU = Sporty model in 88, base model in 89-90 (in USA)
GTUs = Sporty model in 89-90 (in USA)
GX = Luxury Coupe model (in CAN)
GXL = Top line Luxury non turbo model
J-Spec = Japanese/NZ/AUS spec model
LSD = Limited Slip Differential (sometimes incorrectly called Posi or Positraction which is GM's in-house brand name for their Limited Slip Differential)
MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor
MOP = Metering Oil Pump. Oil Metering Pump as called in the service manual. (also see OMP)
NA = 1st gen Miata
NA = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
N/A = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
NB = 2nd gen Miata
OE = Original Equipment
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture
OMP = Oil Metering pump
PD = Pulsation Dampener
PS = Power steering
PW = Power windows
SA = 1st gen RX-7 79-80 production
SE = Base model in the USA in 87.5-88
Series 1 / S1 = 1979-1980 RX-7 models
Series 2 / S2 = 1981-1983 RX-7 models
Series 3 / S3 = 1984-1985 RX-7 models
Series 4 / S4 = 1986-1988 RX-7 models
Series 5 / S5 = 1989-1992 RX-7 models
Series 6 / S6 = 1992-1995 RX-7 models
Sport = 86-87 Sporty model (in USA also see GS)
TB = Throttle Body
TID = Turbo Intake Duct
TMIC = Top Mount InterCooler (factory style)
TPS = Throttle position sensor
TII = Turbo model
T2 = Turbo model
VDI = Variable Dynamic Intake
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
6PI = 6 Port Induction the auxiliary ports, or the not so correct term - 5th/6th ports
13B = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13BT = Turbo charged, 2 rotor, rotary engine
13B-RE = J-spec Cosmo twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13B-REW = FD twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
20B = J-spec Cosmo three rotor, rotary engine.
What Turbo kits can I add onto my N/A RX-7?
There have been no kits tested or formally made, however you may wish to try this company who claims they made one
NA Turbo Kits:
http://www.hardcore-performance.com/tmazda.asp
Most people that turbo a N/A make their own kits:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...;threadid=88540
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...;threadid=88758
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=124232
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
http://users.bigpond.net.au/iwantagtir/
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turb...n_a_project.htm
Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/foru...Turbocharged+NA
My wipers only work on low speed
The wiper switch has a relay inside that has failed. It will need to be replaced. There are several people that replace them, or you can do it yourself.
My tail lights don't work, but my head lights do
The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch.
My dash lights don't work
Did you check the dimmer control??? If you did and they still don't work the light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch.
All my warning lights are on
It is normal for all the lights to come on, if the key is on, and the engine is not running, but they should turn of when the engine is running.
With the engine running the Alternator failure warning circuit in the CPU will switch the lights on when the voltage in the car drops under 12 volts. Either your alternator, belts, underhood fuse box connections may have failed. The voltage in the car and the voltmeter on the dash (only in non-turbo models) needs to be above 12.6 volts. If it is below 12.6 volts your alt is not producing enough power to run the car.
You also need it to stay at or above 13.6 volts to charge the battery.
How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.
My car seems to use a lot of oil. How often do I need to check it?
Everytime you get gas, you should check your oil level. The Rotary motor by design is supposed to inject oil into the engine based on throttle position. If you keep your foot on the gas a lot, you will use more oil. It is normal to use about 1 quart of oil every 1000 to 3000 miles.
How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do?
Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here as there are other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues.
I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM everytime I start it when cold
Yep, part of the accellerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that.
I keep hearing this loud buzzer every time I hit the red line
Yep, for your protection.
My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off
Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel.
My horn doesn't work
Probably bad solder joints in the CPU
My car doesn't start
Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accellerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP.
Will S5 mouldings or bumpers fit on my S4 FC?
other than some minor mounting hole differences on the front bumpers, the mouldings and bumpers will fit fine.
What size are my wheels?
The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:
14x6 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)
15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)
15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible)
16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)
Will FD wheels fit on my FC?
If you use spacers. Typically you need spacers around 25mm (1"), depending on tires
Will a FD motor (13B-REW) fit in my FC?
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. It is generally cheaper and easier however to put in a 20B (typically around $10,000 installed) than it is an 13B-REW from a FD. Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html
I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. Some people have also claimed replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped. If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.
Did my FC come with a Limited Slip Differential?
Only the following FCs had a LSD from the factory:
86-88 GXL
87-91 T2
88 GTU
89-90 GTUs (however not the 89-90 GTU)
It is also rumored that a few rare 91 coupes with both the A (upgraded the interior trim, added a power sunroof, tilt steering wheel, cruise control, and 4 piston front disc brakes and vented single piston rear brakes) and the B package (leather seating, a CD player, and rear cargo cover) came with a LSD, but you should note that Mazda denies that any FC other than the T2 came with a LSD in 91). You can also tell by looking at the differential as there will be a LSD tag on S4 cars with a LSD.
Where can I find links on specific FC information and models?
Searching this site is good. The search function can be found at the top right hand corner of the site. In addition these sites are recommended and can help with models and technical information:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=195286
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/page1.html
http://www.fc3s.org/
http://fc3spro.com/
http://www.mazdamark.com/FCseries4.htm
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/
http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq.htm
I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do?
Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.
My car is having trouble passing emissions, but I have new spark plugs, filters, cats, etc. What do I do?
Recipe for cheating emissions if its ABSOLUTELY necessary:
1. Turn variable resistor to full lean, or as lean as you can get and still run.
2. Trick ACV into pumping air to the cat all the time by removing the FORWARD UPPER vac hose, and capping it.
3. Run 87 octane
4. Run your tank down till your almost empty.
5. 2-3 bottles of alcohol in the tank. Drive VERY GINGERLY to the emissions station.
6. Once you pass go, DIRECTLY to a gas station and fill up with regular unleaded.
I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good?
Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.
Why won't my power window won't come up without me pulling on it?
It's accumulated too much friction on the rails. Remove the interior door panel and spray some sort of lubricant where the window slides. Move it up and down a few times and voila.
How can I fix my door locks?
I got tired of this one and made a site myself:
http://66.69.208.196/rx7
Why won't my sunroof open? It pops upwards but doesn't slide back!
Your rails have accumulated too much junk. Use the right sized allen wrench to manually crank open the roof. There is a center cap on your cieling behind the seats pull that cap off and there is a spindle. Insert and crank.
Now clean off the rails and relubricate them as well as the rubber surrounding them. Close the Sunroof and voila.
This comes back frequently for the s4
How do I activate the auxiliary ports (5+6) on my s4 without backpressure from exhaust (but with air pump)
using a rpm activation switch
http://home.rmci.net/panther/6PortSolution.htm
using a garden hose tee
http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/6port.html
My idle sucks
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
That's it, add more if you can think of any.
I didn't get all of this info myself, I just put it together.
Can I swap a Turbo/Jspec/13BT/etc into my N/A?
Yes, check these links:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...;threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/turboconversion.htm
What should I look for when buying a FC?
Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html
Can I use a S5 tail light on my S4?
Yes with minor modifications to the body of the S4.
Here is a link on converting: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/taillights.htm
I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one
Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm
and
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/manuals/88_fsm.html
http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/manuals/89_fsm.html
http://208.62.166.66/guest/shop_manuals/
What do the abbreviations I see in the 2nd gen section mean?
AAS = Auto Adjusting suspension
ACV = Air Control Valve
AFM = Air Flow Meter (also see MAF)
A-spec = North American Spec
ATF = Automatic transmission fluid
Auto = Automatic transmission
AWS = Accelerated Warm-Up System
BAC = Bypass Air Control
CAS = Crank Angle Sensor
CPU = Central Processing Unit (the Body computer)
DEI = Dynamic Effect Intake (found on 84 and later 13B engines)
DMM = Digital Multi-Meter (required for most electrical testing on cars)
DTSS = Dynamic tracking suspension system (found on all 2nd gen RX-7s)
ECU = Emissions Control Unit (also called Engine Control unit)
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
EGI = Electronic Gasoline Injection
EMS = Engine Management System (aftermarket engine computer)
FB = 1st gen RX-7 81-85 production
FC = 2nd gen RX-7 86-92 production
FC3C = 2nd gen RX-7 convertible
FC3S = 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe
FCD = Fuel Cut defender (aftermarket- used only on Turbos with modifed exhaust and stock ECU)
FD = 3rd gen RX-7
FI = Fuel Injection
FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler
GS = Sporty Model (in CAN)
GTU = Sporty model in 88, base model in 89-90 (in USA)
GTUs = Sporty model in 89-90 (in USA)
GX = Luxury Coupe model (in CAN)
GXL = Top line Luxury non turbo model
J-Spec = Japanese/NZ/AUS spec model
LSD = Limited Slip Differential (sometimes incorrectly called Posi or Positraction which is GM's in-house brand name for their Limited Slip Differential)
MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor
MOP = Metering Oil Pump. Oil Metering Pump as called in the service manual. (also see OMP)
NA = 1st gen Miata
NA = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
N/A = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
NB = 2nd gen Miata
OE = Original Equipment
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture
OMP = Oil Metering pump
PD = Pulsation Dampener
PS = Power steering
PW = Power windows
SA = 1st gen RX-7 79-80 production
SE = Base model in the USA in 87.5-88
Series 1 / S1 = 1979-1980 RX-7 models
Series 2 / S2 = 1981-1983 RX-7 models
Series 3 / S3 = 1984-1985 RX-7 models
Series 4 / S4 = 1986-1988 RX-7 models
Series 5 / S5 = 1989-1992 RX-7 models
Series 6 / S6 = 1992-1995 RX-7 models
Sport = 86-87 Sporty model (in USA also see GS)
TB = Throttle Body
TID = Turbo Intake Duct
TMIC = Top Mount InterCooler (factory style)
TPS = Throttle position sensor
TII = Turbo model
T2 = Turbo model
VDI = Variable Dynamic Intake
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
6PI = 6 Port Induction the auxiliary ports, or the not so correct term - 5th/6th ports
13B = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13BT = Turbo charged, 2 rotor, rotary engine
13B-RE = J-spec Cosmo twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13B-REW = FD twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
20B = J-spec Cosmo three rotor, rotary engine.
What Turbo kits can I add onto my N/A RX-7?
There have been no kits tested or formally made, however you may wish to try this company who claims they made one
NA Turbo Kits:
http://www.hardcore-performance.com/tmazda.asp
Most people that turbo a N/A make their own kits:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...;threadid=88540
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...;threadid=88758
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=124232
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
http://users.bigpond.net.au/iwantagtir/
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turb...n_a_project.htm
Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/foru...Turbocharged+NA
My wipers only work on low speed
The wiper switch has a relay inside that has failed. It will need to be replaced. There are several people that replace them, or you can do it yourself.
My tail lights don't work, but my head lights do
The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch.
My dash lights don't work
Did you check the dimmer control??? If you did and they still don't work the light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch.
All my warning lights are on
It is normal for all the lights to come on, if the key is on, and the engine is not running, but they should turn of when the engine is running.
With the engine running the Alternator failure warning circuit in the CPU will switch the lights on when the voltage in the car drops under 12 volts. Either your alternator, belts, underhood fuse box connections may have failed. The voltage in the car and the voltmeter on the dash (only in non-turbo models) needs to be above 12.6 volts. If it is below 12.6 volts your alt is not producing enough power to run the car.
You also need it to stay at or above 13.6 volts to charge the battery.
How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.
My car seems to use a lot of oil. How often do I need to check it?
Everytime you get gas, you should check your oil level. The Rotary motor by design is supposed to inject oil into the engine based on throttle position. If you keep your foot on the gas a lot, you will use more oil. It is normal to use about 1 quart of oil every 1000 to 3000 miles.
How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do?
Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here as there are other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues.
I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.
My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM everytime I start it when cold
Yep, part of the accellerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that.
I keep hearing this loud buzzer every time I hit the red line
Yep, for your protection.
My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off
Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel.
My horn doesn't work
Probably bad solder joints in the CPU
My car doesn't start
Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accellerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP.
Will S5 mouldings or bumpers fit on my S4 FC?
other than some minor mounting hole differences on the front bumpers, the mouldings and bumpers will fit fine.
What size are my wheels?
The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:
14x6 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)
15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)
15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible)
16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)
Will FD wheels fit on my FC?
If you use spacers. Typically you need spacers around 25mm (1"), depending on tires
Will a FD motor (13B-REW) fit in my FC?
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. It is generally cheaper and easier however to put in a 20B (typically around $10,000 installed) than it is an 13B-REW from a FD. Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html
I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. Some people have also claimed replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped. If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.
Did my FC come with a Limited Slip Differential?
Only the following FCs had a LSD from the factory:
86-88 GXL
87-91 T2
88 GTU
89-90 GTUs (however not the 89-90 GTU)
It is also rumored that a few rare 91 coupes with both the A (upgraded the interior trim, added a power sunroof, tilt steering wheel, cruise control, and 4 piston front disc brakes and vented single piston rear brakes) and the B package (leather seating, a CD player, and rear cargo cover) came with a LSD, but you should note that Mazda denies that any FC other than the T2 came with a LSD in 91). You can also tell by looking at the differential as there will be a LSD tag on S4 cars with a LSD.
Where can I find links on specific FC information and models?
Searching this site is good. The search function can be found at the top right hand corner of the site. In addition these sites are recommended and can help with models and technical information:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=195286
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/page1.html
http://www.fc3s.org/
http://fc3spro.com/
http://www.mazdamark.com/FCseries4.htm
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/
http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq.htm
I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do?
Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.
My car is having trouble passing emissions, but I have new spark plugs, filters, cats, etc. What do I do?
Recipe for cheating emissions if its ABSOLUTELY necessary:
1. Turn variable resistor to full lean, or as lean as you can get and still run.
2. Trick ACV into pumping air to the cat all the time by removing the FORWARD UPPER vac hose, and capping it.
3. Run 87 octane
4. Run your tank down till your almost empty.
5. 2-3 bottles of alcohol in the tank. Drive VERY GINGERLY to the emissions station.
6. Once you pass go, DIRECTLY to a gas station and fill up with regular unleaded.
I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good?
Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.
Why won't my power window won't come up without me pulling on it?
It's accumulated too much friction on the rails. Remove the interior door panel and spray some sort of lubricant where the window slides. Move it up and down a few times and voila.
How can I fix my door locks?
I got tired of this one and made a site myself:
http://66.69.208.196/rx7
Why won't my sunroof open? It pops upwards but doesn't slide back!
Your rails have accumulated too much junk. Use the right sized allen wrench to manually crank open the roof. There is a center cap on your cieling behind the seats pull that cap off and there is a spindle. Insert and crank.
Now clean off the rails and relubricate them as well as the rubber surrounding them. Close the Sunroof and voila.
This comes back frequently for the s4
How do I activate the auxiliary ports (5+6) on my s4 without backpressure from exhaust (but with air pump)
using a rpm activation switch
http://home.rmci.net/panther/6PortSolution.htm
using a garden hose tee
http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/6port.html
My idle sucks
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html
That's it, add more if you can think of any.
I didn't get all of this info myself, I just put it together.