'91 Convertible Not Starting

[wulf312]

I believe I have a leaky fuel injector(s), as about 7 months ago I drove it about 30 feet when it was cold, and then it failed to start. I work at an auto repair shop, and my mechanic replaced the plugs and put ATF in the plug holes and it started up. Since then I have never driven it without getting the engine warmed up, and I have installed a flood switch.

Until about a month ago... Made the mistake of moving it in my driveway to a better position, probably running the engine for less than a minute. Now the engine sounds as if it has no compression.

I towed it back to the shop, and had my mechanic yank the plugs and try the deflood procedure again (we didn't replace the plugs this time). We've tried it twice. The engine doesn't seem to be building compression at all. It has been extremely cold here lately, so I'm sure that isn't helping. My shop doesn't have the tools necessary to do a proper compression check on these engines either. I'm trying to sell the car, and even have someone lined up to look at it Wednesday night. If anyone has any ideas, I'd like to hear them!

[black rocket]

First, I'd ck oil nozzles are functioning along with omp to make sure seals are lubricating well enough to reduce poss gap between housing & seals.

How's them coils? It may not be putting out enough juice to plugs. Furthermore, when you do ATF procedure, I'm hoping, you used a dedicated plugs & replaced them afterward.

And I should've asked first, is it stock & have all EGR intact? It is a good possibility that them ck valves/solenoids may be inop... as well as vac hose may possibly got disconnected. So, I would perform vac leak ck procedure and find, if any, disconnected hoses.

As to compression, you know how to ck for compression by feeling exhaust pressure by the palm of your hand and you should feel the difference, if comp is low.

Another issue is your existing fuel. As you know, during cold season, especially, tank has a tendency to collect condensation and hopefully your fuel filters have trap the water. That's another simple inspection you can perform.

Hope my suggestions help.

Nonetheless, let us know how it turns out!

[wulf312]

The engine is completely stock, and EGR is intact. How do I go about checking them and the OMP and the oil nozzles? My mechanics are having to follow my lead on this one. I still have to pay by the hour (albeit it at a lower employee rate), but I'm not going to dump much more time/money into it.

[black rocket]

The engine is completely stock, and EGR is intact. How do I go about checking them and the OMP and the oil nozzles? My mechanics are having to follow my lead on this one. I still have to pay by the hour (albeit it at a lower employee rate), but I'm not going to dump much more time/money into it.

I don't blame you there. How mechanically inclined is your mechanic and rotary engine knowledge?

OMP. Oil metering pump which distributes proper amount of oil into rotary chambers thru oil nozzle for lubrication.

What I would do if it was my FC I would pour some lucas oil into a chamber thru plug holes and manually rotate for a while and let it thoroughly coat internally. I would ck for good grounding on ECU, ck the batt cable. I, then, would ck for spark to see. I would def change fuel filter and ck to see fuel flow afterward.

After procedure above, I would fire it up and see what happens. It will take a bit of time to get it going if everything works. If not, I would do a vac leak test & see.

Of course, that will be something I would be doing to my own FC but I will not take any responsibility of the outcome, I just want to throw that in as with all suggestion thru any forums.

Talk it over with your mech and see if it all make sense to him. So, overall, you'd be dishing out fuel filters some oil, probably less than 2 hrs of time.

[wulf312]

Well we've checked everything as much as we could, and tried the deflood procedure with new plugs and Lucas oil as opposed to ATF, but to no avail. We've decided to give up.

Any advice on what to sell it for now? Lol. I was asking $2400 when it was running and it does need a new left fender, passenger door, convertible top and the leather needs to be redone.

[black rocket]

Unfortunately, with that extent of flaws your best bet will be sell pieces. S5 lens (rear lens) on your convertible alone, if its perfect, can yeild $400.00 without much effort, and other lenses.

Door handles are another demanding items. Internal center console are hot items as well as its seats and center toggle conttrol units.

Non running engines are not a hot item but you may be able to get some money for it.

Sry to hear about mech issues. Considering the fact that we are dealing with 20 yr old cars that have worn hoses, etc., one has to be an enthusiast to appreciate and maintain properly to enjoy it, and it is always involve dumping lot of money & time and sanity is jeopadized... heh

Good luck nonetheless!

[BoostedFC]

As you will find out the people who will be interested in purchasing your car will most likely be cheap skates. As much as I hate to see a car parted it out, I will agree it will turn a better profit to do so. As stated above the car is 20 yrs old & is going to cost money to get right & stay right, if you are not devoted to the car then it's best to get out now. Good luck in what ever you decide.